Wine Spectator : THE TOP 100 (Jan. 15, 2004)
Matt Kramer Praises Classical Chianti at Wine Experience in New York

Much like a gifted clergyman or a passionate politician, longtime Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer can grab an audience and enchant it with his combination of energy, wit and enthusiasm for the wines he loves.
One of those wines is Chianti Classico, and Kramer shared three from 2000 vintage that he believes exemplify the famous Italian region and its indigenous grape Sangiovese.
“Chianti Classico has, in recent years, engaged in a lot of experimentation”, Kramer said, explaining that many Chianti Classicos are now blended with as much as 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or some combination thereof, and aged in new oak barrels. Winemakers have adopted these international practices because, Kramer said, “They...are... afraid. They are afraid you will not appreciate or understand what’s going on in Chianti today.
“Somewhere along the strada, however, Sangiovese has been lost. It is slowly becoming less the signature identity in Chianti Classico. In their minds, they have no choice.
“I want to show you the Chiantis I live with, the Chiantis I love, the ones that represent what Italians would call la verità - the truth.”
All three of the Chianti Classicos contained at least 95 percent Sangiovese and were blended only with Canaiolo, a grape indigenous to Chianti. “What they do have,” Kramer said, “is la verità. None of these taste anything like the others. Last time I looked, that used to be known as terroir.” ...Kramer tasted the Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico 2000 (85 point), very rich. “It’s exquisitely perfumey,” he said, “and the flavour impact is enormous.” With its signature dustiness and dry cherry and berry flavours, “this wine was designed to go with food. The 2000 is gorgeous. If Mozart made Chianti, it’d be Paolina.”
...All three wines are examples of the ambition behind today’s Chianti Classicos and the potential that lies ahead, Kramer said.
“All three wineries believe you can and will understand la verità of Chianti Classico. And I think you will too.”